As in previous dynasties, the Song's largest cities were its capitals — Kaifeng during the Northern Song and Hangzhou after the dynasty was confined to the South, (1127-1279).

But unlike previous capitals such as the Tang dynasty's Changan, the Song capitals did not have walled off wards. Instead, they boasted a lively street life, with markets, shops, and restaurants about which we know in surprising detail. Kaifeng did have an external wall, but its population spilled beyond it. The wall we see in the scroll has lost its military purpose, but its gate — seen here — still forms an impressive entrance into the city.